San Agustín Archaeological Park, nestling in south-western Colombia, is a sacred land and an ancient mystery. Wrapped in a veil of magic, it celebrates a bewitching mythology and offers a profound insight into Colombia’s rich pre-colonial history.
The civilisation that gave its name to this park has disappeared, leaving behind countless questions. Why did these megalith builders concentrate so many sculptures here? How did they manage to hoist blocks weighing several tonnes to the top of hills that they raised to dominate the panorama? What did they want to convey? Who were they addressing? These questions continue to pique the curiosity of ethnologists, historians, anthropologists and guides.
Located in the department of Huila, the park was once the economic and religious centre of two indigenous cultures that inhabited the region more than 5,000 years ago. Despite the mystery surrounding these peoples, the park is home to the largest necropolis in America and bears witness to their beliefs, their existence and their funerary and ceremonial practices through more than 500 statues.
The beauty of San Agustín lies in the richness and diversity of the representations found on these statues. Mostly anthropomorphic, sometimes zoomorphic, these sculptures frequently depict figures with deformed features, complete with jaguar teeth, dilated pupils and cheekbones that reveal coca balls chewed for hours on end.
The park, most of which was discovered in the 20th century, has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1995. Unfortunately, some of the statues have fallen into disrepair, having been used as posts to demarcate properties or to fill in holes in gardens.
The region is easily accessible by bus from the cities of Cali or Neiva, and once there you are greeted by the typical Colombian charm of white houses with colonial green detailing, adorned with colourful flowers.
San Agustín is a celebration of human spirituality and its mystery, a deep immersion in an ancient and fascinating history. Despite the mystery surrounding this vanished civilisation, or perhaps because of it, the park attracts those seeking to satisfy their curiosity for cultural and historical discovery. Each visit offers a valuable insight into Colombia’s ancient and mysterious history.
